Robert M. Parker, Jr.’s
THE WINE ADVOCATE

DECEMBER 2009, ISSUE #186

Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses

2008  Kongsgaard Cabernet Sauvignon, (90-92) points From lower yields, the 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon is more monolithic, offering dark fruits, hints of espresso roast and chocolate, and sweet tannins. However, it does not appear to have the level of complexity or the aging potential of the 2007. Nevertheless, it should drink nicely for 12-15 years.

2008  Kongsgaard Syrah Hudson Vineyard, (92-94) points The 2008 Syrah Hudson Vineyard exhibits plenty of blueberry, creosote, charcoal, black fruit, smoked meat, and lard notes offered in a dense, rich, full-bodied format. An exotic, smoky, thick Syrah, it should drink beautifully for 10-15 years.

Note: At the time of Robert Parker’s annual visit in the fall of 2009, the 2008 Chardonnay and The Judge were still fermenting and hence not ready for tasting in time for publication. – JK


Tasted from bottle, released 2009

From a top vintage for proprietor/winemaker John Kongsgaard, the 2007 Chardonnays are among the finest he has made to date. They combine great richness and bold flavor profiles with extraordinary minerality and definition.

2007  Kongsgaard Chardonnay, 95 points

The 2007 Chardonnay possesses abundant aromas of white peaches, citrus blossoms, crushed rocks (think liquid minerality), and honeyed tropical fruit presented in a full-bodied wine with good acidity, depth, and length. It should drink well for a decade.

2007  Kongsgaard Chardonnay The Judge, 98+ points A special selection of the top barrels, the 2007 Chardonnay The Judge is more backward than the regular Chardonnay, revealing a liqueur of rocks-like character intermixed with hints of almond paste, tropical fruits, quince, and mango. Its incredible length, richness, and depth suggest this wine will benefit from 1-2 years of bottle age, and should keep for over a decade.

2007  Kongsgaard Cabernet Sauvignon, 94 points Kongsgaard’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon to date is the 2007. Its dense purple color is accompanied by deep cassis, smoke, blackberry, licorice, and roasted meat-like characteristics. Dense and rich with sweet tannin, full-bodied power, and a youthful style, it should evolve for at least 20 years.

2007  Kongsgaard Syrah Hudson Vineyard, 94 points Aromas of tapenade, bacon fat, and scorched earth emerge from the 2007 Syrah Hudson Vineyard. The complex aromatics are followed by rich, thick flavors with elegance as well as good definition. There is slightly more minerality apparent in this full-bodied 2007 than in the 2008. Drink it during its first decade of life.

2008  Kongsgaard VioRous, 95 points A white wine hussy, the blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier is now called VioRous. Along with those that come from Elaine and Manfred Krankl’s Sine Qua Non winery, Kongsgaard’s 2008 is the finest white Rhone Ranger blend I have tasted. Exotic, exuberant notes of honeyed lychee nuts, ripe peaches, pineapples, and subtle smoke soar from the glass of this easy to appreciate and drink wine. Big, fleshy, hedonistic, rich, and fruit-driven, I’m not sure how long it will last, but it is irresistible at present.


DECEMBER 2008, ISSUE #180

The idiosyncratic, but brilliant producer of Chardonnay, Roussanne/Viognier, Syrah, and more recently, Cabernet Sauvignon, John Kongsgaard, and his low-tech, artisinal winemaking style have had an enormous influence on many top northern California winemakers. It’s always a treat to taste with him. All his wines are limited in quantity as the family’s vineyard in Coombsville is only 9 acres, so he draws fruit from special plots in the Hudson Vineyard for his Syrah, and more recently from some of David Abreu’s vineyards for his 350-case cuvee of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses, 2009 release

2007 Chardonnay, (91-94) points The full-bodied 2007 Chardonnay offers notes of liquid rocks, pineapples, honeysuckle, orange blossoms, and lemon oil. This beautiful effort should turn out as well as Kongsgaard’s superb 2005.

2007 Chardonnay The Judge, (94-96) points The 2007 Chardonnay The Judge probably will not eclipse the 2005 The Judge, but it is loaded with potential. A liqueur of minerals, subtle smoky hazelnuts, and full-bodied pineapple, orange blossom, quince, and mango flavors emerge from this stunning, well-textured, layered Chardonnay. Possessing great substance as well as finesse, it should drink well for 5-8 years.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon, (93-95) points Pure opulence and extravagantly ripe fruit jump from the glass of the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. It exhibits an opaque purple color, tremendous density and richness, and notes of mocha, black cherries, blackberries, currants, licorice, graphite, and earth. This full-bodied, seamlessly constructed, gorgeously rich 2007 should last for two decades or more.

2007 Syrah Hudson Vineyard, (94-96) points A huge, massive force, the 2007 Syrah Hudson Vineyard combines chocolate, creme de cassis, blackberries, soy, beef jerky, smoked game, and Peking duck characteristics in its thick, juicy personality. Full-bodied with amazing purity and a stunning finish, it should turn out to be as good as the 2006, with perhaps more aromatic fireworks. Kongsgaard employs no additives, proteins, or enzymes, ferments his Syrah in puncheons with indigenous yeasts, and does not sulfur the wine until long after malolactic is completed. In the huge Hudson Vineyard, he has an unusual block of vines planted totally in volcanic soils and shale. This is the source for his Syrah, one of the most provocative and individualistic Syrahs made in California.

Tasted from bottle, released 2008

2006 Chardonnay, 91 points The 2006 Chardonnay reveals brawny orange marmalade, white peach, and popcorn notes with notions of oak and damp earth in the background. Drink it over the next several years as I am suspect of the aging potential of these Chardonnays.

2006 Chardonnay The Judge, 93 points The 2006 Chardonnay The Judge is one of the vintage’s more compelling examples of this varietal. Like its siblings, it is aged 22 months in French oak (mostly new), and is bottled with no clarification. The Judge represents a selection of the finest barrels and is an homage to Kongsgaard’s father. It exhibits more white peach, pineapple, and tropical fruit characteristics as well as a steely minerality, full body, and more power than the regular cuvee.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, 89+ points Notes of crushed rocks, spring flowers, black raspberries, and currants emerge from the austere, tannic, medium to full-bodied, tough-textured 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. It seems like a long distance runner, but I am not sure it will ever have the complexity, charm, or joy of either the 2005 or 2007. Give it 3-4 years of bottle age and drink it over the following 15 years.

2006 Syrah Hudson Vineyard, 95 points The 2006 Syrah Hudson Vineyard jumps out of the glass with its notes of scorched earth, beef blood, blackberries, black olives, spring flowers, coffee, and roasted meats. Incredibly textured, rich, full-bodied, and long, this beauty must be tasted to be believed. It should evolve for 15 or more years, although few purchasers will be able to defer their gratification.

2007 VioRous, 95 points One of Kongsgaard’s most intriguing offerings, and along with Sine Qua Non’s blend of Roussanne, Viognier, and Chardonnay, one of my two favorite dry white Rhone Rangers is the 2007 Roussanne/Viognier (60% and 40% respectively). Flamboyant notes of honeysuckle, lychee nuts, apricots, and caramelized peaches soar from the glass along with a cocktail of spring flowers. Sexy, full-bodied, hedonistic, and lavishly fruity, this is an exquisite white to drink over the next several years. It is probably a “love it or leave it” wine, even for Rhone Ranger enthusiasts, but I love it.


DECEMBER 2007, ISSUE #174

Tasted from bottle, released 2007

2005 Chardonnay, 95 points A stunning effort, the 2005 Chardonnay boasts copious notes of floral, honeysuckle, and orange oil offered in a full-bodied white. It possesses terrific acidity, a striking terroir-based minerality, and beautiful delineation as well as purity. This is a large-scaled yet remarkably fresh wine with the balance and grace of a world-class ballerina. Enjoy it over the next decade.

2005 The Judge Chardonnay, 98 points The 2005 The Judge Chardonnay flirts with perfection. Incredibly intense flowery notes along with a liqueur of honeysuckle and crushed rocks complete with some tropical fruit, quince, orange, and pineapple characteristics. This intensely full, fresh, lively, gorgeous white benefits from 22 months aging in barrel, and bottling off the lees unfiltered.

2005 Syrah Hudson Vineyard, 98 points The fabulous 2005 Syrah Hudson Vineyard is even better than it was last year. An incredible dark purple color offers up notes of creosote, subtle charcoal embers, aged beef, fresh beef blood, black currants, sweet cherries, pepper, and tapenade. An incredibly complex, deep, full-bodied Syrah with expressive chocolatey notes in the mouth, this intense Syrah challenges just about every ounce of grey matter between the ears. It should evolve for 10-15+ years.

2006 Vio Rous, 95 points One of California’s most exotic whites is Kongsgaard’s innovative blend of Roussanne and Viognier. It is reminiscent of some of Sine Qua Non’s whites. The 2006 Roussanne/Viognier (60% and 40% respectively) exhibits classic aromas of rose petals, lychee nuts, pineapples, honeysuckle, and a touch of lilacs. This exotic, exuberant wine will either be loved or hated by consumers. I happen to love it. Distinctive, full-bodied, and complex, it requires consumption during its first several years of life.

Wine tasted from barrel is scored in parentheses.

2006 Chardonnay, (92-94 points) The 2006 Chardonnay reveals high acidity. When I tasted it at age 12 months, it had still not had any SO2 added, and it was still on its primary lees. I have written at length about Kongsgaard’s belief that Chardonnay has to first die in the barrel, then resurrect itself, and unless a winemaker has the guts to watch that happen, it is doubtful they will achieve the complexity that Kongsgaard does on a routine basis. The 2006 is young, primary, and elegant with plenty of citrus and tangerine oil characteristics as well as hints of quince and crushed rocks. It should prove to be long-lived given its acid profile.

2006 Chardonnay The Judge, (96-98 points) The Judge Chardonnay, a special cuvee, is an homage to John Kongsgaard’s father, who was a judge. The 2006 The Judge Chardonnay exhibits superb acidity, and the same character as the regular cuvee, but with even more concentration, precision, and minerality. John Kongsgaard’s Chardonnay comes from the family’s 9-acre, high elevation, cool climate, Coombsville vineyard in southern Napa.

2006 Syrah Hudson Vineyard, (95-97 points) The 2006 Syrah Hudson Vineyard has not yet developed all the nuances of the 05, but it reveals chocolaty, burning embers, aged beef, smoky game, blackberry, black cherry, and creme de cassis notes. A hint of roasted Provencal herbs is also evident. This Syrah was fermented and aged in 500 liter puncheons. The sensational 2006 should be on a slightly faster evolutionary track than the 2005.


DECEMBER 2006, ISSUE #168
Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses.

One of the mavericks and cutting-edge philosophical winemakers of the world, John Kongsgaard farms his family’s nine-acre, high-elevation, cool-climate Coomsville vineyard in Southern Napa with meticulous care. Moreover, his wines are made with as little intervention as possible. In 2005 the wines spent 20-22 months on their lees, fermented with indigenous yeasts, and of course there was no fining or filtration in bottling.

2005 The Judge Chardonnay, (95-98 points) There are 250 cases (it was a relatively abundant vintage) of the 2005 Chardonnay The Judge, and this wine hasn’t even been racked from its original barrels. The wine shows a greenish hue to its light gold color and a stunning nose of orange essence intermixed with lemon oil, crushed rocks, white flowers, and a hint of sweet corn. It is a full-bodied, powerful wine with zesty acidity that brings everything into focus in something so concentrated. This should be uncommonly long-lived by California Chardonnay standards.

2005 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (92-94+ points) The 2005 Chardonnay shows ripe poached pear, citric acid, a hint of orange blossom, some smoky terroir-like earthiness, terrific acidity, and laser-like precision. I suspect this wine is going to put on weight over the next year, and land in the upper end of my projected range of scores. It should drink well for 7-10 years in a cold cellar as well.

2005 Syrah Napa Valley, (94-96 points) The 2005 Syrah Hudson Vineyard comes across like an Hermitage made in Napa. It is likely to be somewhat controversial given the almost extravagant nose of ground pepper, aged beef, blood, herbs, and blackberry and blueberry fruit. It has huge intensity, great purity, and is so strikingly complex and nuanced that it is an intellectual challenge to figure out, but the texture is sensational, and the tannin sweet. I predict this will be an amazing, riveting wine to drink during its first 10-15 years of life.

Tasted from bottle, released 2006

2004 The Judge Chardonnay, 98 points The 2004 Chardonnay The Judge is about as fine a Chardonnay as one is likely to find in the world. The wine, as one might expect, is from the same vineyard and simply the most concentrated barrels of what is already a very concentrated wine. It just has more of everything when compared to the regular 2004 Chardonnay, but I think the most striking thing is that, from what I can tell, he is looking for even more intense minerality in the wine, and this wine certainly offers it in spades. It should age for up to a decade.

2004 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 94 points The 2004 Chardonnay shows that wonderful liquified rockiness, as if someone took a couple of boulders, threw them in a Cuisinart, and was able to extract some liquid, interwoven with tangerine oil, nectarine, quince, pear, and popcorn and honey. Quite layered, full-bodied, but with terrific acidity and vibrancy, this is a sensational Chardonnay that is set for 8-10 years of life.

2004 Syrah Napa Valley, 90 points Perhaps one of the most idiosyncratic and distinctive Syrahs from California is Kongsgaard’s. From a parcel of the large Hudson Vineyard grown in volcanic soils, this wine has a character totally different from anything else I have tasted in California. The 2004 Syrah Hudson Vineyard is the most monolithic wine I have tasted from Kongsgaard. It has outstanding concentration and plenty of graphite, roasted meat, blueberry, mulberry, and almost earthy characteristics, but it does not have the complexity of the fabulous 2003 or the blockbuster 2005.

2005 Roussanne/Viognier Napa Valley, 96 points The best white Rhone Ranger made north of San Francisco is Kongsgaard’s blend of Roussanne and Viognier, a blend that he plays with and changes every year depending on what the vintage gives. The 2004 was a letdown after several thrilling vintages, but I have to say that the 2005 is possibly the best he has yet made. A 120-case blend of 63% Roussanne, and 37% Viognier, it is right up there with the great Sine Qua Non blended white from the Santa Barbara region. An unbelievably exotic nose of litchi, high class perfume, sweet apricots, and tropical fruits with hints of lilac is followed by a wine of great intensity, tremendous acidity, and a flamboyant personality. This is a Marilyn Monroe in her prime dressed in a chic Chanel suit. I wouldn’t push my luck on aging this one, so my best advice would be to drink it over the next two years, assuming you can keep your hands off of it for that long.


DECEMBER 2005, ISSUE #162
Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses.

2004 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, (98-100) points The 2004 Chardonnay The Judge has more of everything than the regular bottling, including concentration, perfume, structure, and richness. This surreal Chardonnay has very few peers in California.

2004 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (94-96) points The 2004 Chardonnay, which has not had a touch of SO₂ (it was already 13 months old when I tasted it), exhibits notes of honeyed orange rind, caramel, and liqueur of rocks along with wonderful full-bodied opulence, and exquisite definition and richness. This sensational 2004 looks to be even better than the 2003.

2004 Syrah Napa Valley, (90-93) points The 2004 Syrah Hudson Vineyard reveals a meaty, spicy, scorched earth, and smoky blackberry and currant-scented nose. The tannin is silkier than in the 2003, and the wine is seductive, rich, and by Kongsgaard’s standards, evolved and forward for this particular cuvee. The 2004 will be the most precocious Syrah Kongsgaard has yet made, and should drink well for 10-12 years.

Tasted from bottle, released 2005

2003 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, 99 points The Chardonnay of the vintage is the 2003 Chardonnay The Judge. At $175, it may be California’s most expensive Chardonnay, but what a remarkable wine! Tightly-wound as well as super-concentrated, it represents the essence of a terroir and varietal character. Sadly, there are only 100 cases of this remarkable effort.

2003 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 94 points The 2003 Chardonnay possesses what the French call a gout de petrol, an oily, liqueur of mineral-like characteristic that, along with the honeysuckle and smoky, spicy, rich, marmalade/nectarine-like fruit character produces a profound example of grand cru California Chardonnay that ages well for 7-8 years, possibly longer (I don’t know for certain since my allotment is all consumed before that age).

2003 Syrah Napa Valley, 94 points The blockbuster, opaque purple-colored 2003 Syrah Hudson Vineyard exhibits aromas of ground pepper, licorice, graphite, and smoke. While there is huge fruit and great richness, this cuvee appears to have shut down following bottling. Tannic, heady, and rich, it was difficult to coax out of the glass. There is a wonderful composty, underbrush, primordial character to these Syrahs, with an almost scorched earth component. Think of it as drinking a liquefied grilled steak.


FEBRUARY 2005, ISSUE #157
Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses

2003 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, (98-100) points There are only 100 cases of the 2003 Chardonnay The Judge (which debuted in 2002 and is named after his father). Representing the essence of Chardonnay, it is a bit weighty, revealing a liqueur of nectarine-like character along with all the other components found in the regular bottling. Full-bodied and powerful, it is one of the most profound Chardonnays made in California. Sadly, it is extremely limited in availability.

2003 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (93-95) points One of the finest 2003 Chardonnays I tasted, Kongsgaard’s offering exhibits white currants, peach, and honeysuckle with crisp, liquid minerality in the background. Full-bodied, powerful, elegant, and pure, it is another knock-out effort from big John Kongsgaard.

2003 Syrah Napa Valley, (93-95) points There are 400+ cases of Kongsgaard’s distinctive Syrah. Aged in 50% new French oak, it is fashioned from a special parcel of Hudson Vineyard vines planted in volcanic soils. The last three vintages have all been extraordinary, with perhaps the 2001 Syrah Hudson Vineyard my overall favorite. However, the 2003 is just below its two older siblings. The wine possesses striking blackberry, ground pepper, fried bacon fat, barbecue spice, and underbrush/composty characteristics that are also meaty and primordial. The volcanic soils may give this wine a more smoky, scorched, meaty character than other Northern California Syrahs. As the wine sits in the glass, notes of melted licorice also emerge. The full-bodied 2003 is not as powerful and intense as the 2002. This cuvee always benefits from 2-3 hours of decanting, and a young vintage might even be better if decanted 24 hours in advance. This wine should easily last 10-15 years. It is unquestionably the most singular expression of Syrah in Northern California.

Tasted from bottle, released 2004

2002 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, 97 points The powerful, full-bodied 2002 Chardonnay The Judge possesses a similar character to the regular bottling, with more orange marmalade/nectarine characteristics as well as a 60-second finish. These wines tend to age beautifully for 6-7 years, perhaps even longer ... I just never have any bottles left after that period of time.

2002 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 95 points The 2002 Chardonnay reveals evolution in its orange liqueur, lemon oil, honeyed grapefruit, roasted hazelnut, and leesy personality. With terrific delineation, intensity, and full body, noble purity, and an amazing texture, it represents California’s version of a Batard-Montrachet. These wines tend to age beautifully for 6-7 years, perhaps even longer ... I just never have any bottles left after that period of time.

2002 Syrah Napa Valley, 95 points There are 400+ cases of Kongsgaard’s distinctive Syrah. Aged in 50% new French oak, it is fashioned from a special parcel of Hudson Vineyard vines planted in volcanic soils. The last three vintages have all been extraordinary, with perhaps the 2001 Syrah Hudson Vineyard my overall favorite. However, the 2002 is close in quality. The wine possesses striking blackberry, ground pepper, fried bacon fat, barbecue spice, and underbrush/composty characteristics that are also meaty and primordial. The volcanic soils may give this wine a more smoky, scorched, meaty character than other Northern California Syrahs. As the wine sits in the glass, notes of melted licorice also emerge. The 2002 is extremely layered and long. This cuvee always benefits from 2-3 hours of decanting, and a young vintage might even be better if decanted 24 hours in advance. This wine should easily last 10-15 years. It is unquestionably the most singular expression of Syrah in Northern California.

2003 Viognier/Roussanne Napa Valley, 96 points One of California’s finest white Rhone Ranger blends is Kongsgaard’s 2003 Roussanne/Viognier (45% of the former and 55% of the latter, both co-fermented). Kongsgaard told me the wine that inspired this cuvee was Beaucastel’s Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, a 100% Roussanne considered by most authorities to be the Montrachet of the southern Rhone Valley. Exotic notes of papaya, mango, and other tropical fruits intermixed with lychee and mineral characteristics emerge from this full-bodied, concentrated, intoxicating, provocative white. It is meant to be consumed during its first 2-3 years of life as once the aromatics begin to crack up, much of this wine’s allure is over.


DECEMBER 2003, ISSUE #150

The mystical John Kongsgaard is one heck of a winemaker. These are low tech, artisinal offerings that eschew commercial yeasts, bacterial strains, and enzymes. Of course, they are bottled naturally, with no fining or filtration. What one gets is the essence of the varietal, vintage, and vineyard.

2001 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 98 points An awesome effort, the 2001 Chardonnay may be this estate’s finest Chardonnay to date. Boasting profoundly intense notes of orange marmalade, minerals, lemon oil, and honeysuckle as well as great delineation for its massive size, this terrific Chardonnay tastes like a grand cru white Burgundy. The finish lasts for 45 seconds. Wines such as this make a mockery of some of the uneducated rhetoric coming from wine journalists who constantly criticize mediocre, over-oaked Chardonnays, but fail to identify the great ones. It is capable of lasting and evolving for a decade.

2001 Syrah Napa Valley, 96 points The 2001 Syrah may be the finest yet produced by Kongsgaard. It is a dead ringer for a more exotic version of Chapoutier’s great Le Pavillon (from 80+ year old vines planted in granite soils on the Hermitage Hill). Aromas of white chocolate, ground pepper, blackberries, cassis liqueur, and flowers (lilacs?) is followed by a wine of great density, a certain exoticism, and powerful, thick, huge flavors oozing with extract, glycerin, and personality. There is also considerable tannin as well as decent acidity. This is about as close to a northern Rhone as Kongsgaard Syrahs get. Look for this 2001 to tighten up considerably, and be at its finest between 2007-2020.

2002 Viognier/Roussanne Napa Valley, 96 points The 2002 Roussanne/Viognier (27% Roussanne and 73% Viognier) may be the finest example of this cuvee Kongsgaard has yet produced. A smorgasbord of aromas soar from the flamboyant, over-the-top, exotic bouquet that smells like an Asian fruit market. Extremely full-bodied and unctuously-textured, but buttressed by surprisingly good acidity as well as remarkable minerality, this is a profound effort that should be drunk during its first 2-3 years of life.

2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 94 points The 2000 Chardonnay is evolving quickly for an offering from this estate. While a top vintage can easily hold up to a decade of cellaring, the 2000 is best consumed over the next two years. Full-bodied, with a striking minerality in addition to a concoction of orange citrus oil flavors, this medium to full-bodied Chardonnay possesses crisp acidity, a hint of roasted nuts, and a long finish. I tasted through a half dozen bottles I purchased, and each appeared to be slightly more evolved than the previous, a complete contrast to how the 1997 and 1999 have matured. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.

2000 Syrah Napa Valley, 93 points The opaque purple-colored 2000 Syrah exhibits a big, sweet bouquet of blackberries, white pepper, creosote, and bacon fat. Full-bodied, structured, backward, and concentrated, with the tannin currently dominating its full-bodied style, this 2000 has gone to sleep; I do not expect it to re-emerge for 5-6 years. This may be one of the few California Syrahs that evolves and tastes better at age 12 or 15 than it did in its youth.


DECEMBER 2002, ISSUE #144
The following note is from Robert Parker's
Wine Personalities of the Year

Kongsgaard fashions extraordinary Chardonnays and Syrahs as well as a ravishing Roussanne/Viognier blend from tiny yields and ripe fruit. He is a rather mystical winemaker who is about as low tech and artisanal as they come. He pioneered the so-called "death and resurrection" style of winemaking, which eschews added yeasts, bacteria strains, and enzymes, as well as fining and filtration. It actually goes beyond that, but he lost me somewhere in outer space when trying to explain everything he doesn't do. The fact is, the wines are spectacular, and they age remarkably well. He is also a partner with auctioneer Fritz Hatton in the small winery called Arietta that produces classy Merlot, Merlot/Syrah, and Merlot/Cabernet Franc blends that are among the most elegant, complex wines of this type in California. Not surprisingly, John Kongsgaard cites the renowned French oenologist, Michel Rolland, for whom he worked while doing the winemaking at Newton, as the most influential person in his winemaking career.


AUGUST 2002, ISSUE #142

1999 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 95 points The light green/gold-colored 1999 Chardonnay (900 cases) displays an extraordinary perfume of liquified minerals, honeysuckle, citrus oils, smoky nuts, and hints of caramel as well as orange marmalade. As it sits in the glass, even more nuances develop. It is concentrated yet extraordinarily structured and intense (much like its winemaker). This wine will drink beautifully over the next 7-8 years.

1999 Syrah Napa Valley, 95 points The 1999 Syrah Hudson Vineyard is even better out of bottle than it was from cask. Its opaque black/blue/purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of barbecue spices intermixed with creosote, violets, blackberry and creme de cassis liqueur, explosive, full-bodied flavors of cassis, and an amazingly thick, juicy yet vibrant and well-defined personality. There is plenty of tannin, but the wealth of fruit and intensity is mind-boggling. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. Kongsgaard is crop-thinning down to one grape cluster per shoot in an effort to obtain Syrah at its most intense. There are 125 cases of the 1999 Syrah Hudson Vineyard. The wine is 100% Syrah fermented and aged in wood for 18 months, and then bottled without fining or filtration. The result is one of California's most awesome as well as singular expressions of Syrah.

2001 Roussanne/Viognier Napa Valley, 94 points Believe it or not, the 2001 Roussanne/Viognier is even more sublime than the 2000. It is a blend of 60% Roussanne and 40% Viognier, and ranks as one of the single greatest white Rhone Ranger blends I have tasted. It boasts a lavish nose of candied citrus, honeysuckle, buttered tangerines, and minerals. It is loaded with fruit, possessing a viscous texture as well as surprising acidity to hold up the wine's enormous weight and mass. France's renowned Chateau Beaucastel Roussanne Vieilles Vignes from Chateauneuf du Pape is a reference point. Like Kongsgaard's Chardonnays, this cuvee is given full malolactic fermentation in neutral oak, and is bottled without fining or filtration. Sadly, only small quantities of these amazing dry whites are produced.

Stephen Tanzer’s
INTERNATIONAL WINE CELLAR

MAY/JUNE 2010

Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses

2008 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (92-95) points

Bright yellow. Musky aromas of lemon drop, hazelnut and yeasty lees. Quite bright in the mouth, with a crunchier fruit quality than the 2007: tangerine, lemon rind, brown spices, hazelnut and a waxy, honeyed nuance. Can't match the 2007 for volume but this very brisk wine finishes with terrific saline lift and energy.

(The 2008 Judge had not yet finished fermenting and Kongsgaard was still stirring the lees!)

2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, (92-95) points Saturated, deep ruby-red. Black fruits and licorice on the nose, lifted by a violet perfume. Sexy on entry, then suave and bright in the middle, showing less sheer volume than the 2007 but terrific energy and lovely breadth. This is showing a distinctly smiley face today in spite of its definition, cut and underlying minerality. The long, mounting finish throws off complex notes of spices, anise and minerals. "This offers an unusually broad entry for our wines," notes Kongsgaard. Next to this, the 2007 comes off as almost rigid today.

2008 Syrah Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley, (92-95) points Saturated ruby. Very pure and primary nose and palate hint at black fruits and licorice; smells like a six-month-old barrel sample. Youthfully tough at present, following a racking just a couple weeks ago. "This hasn't yet become syrah," noted Kongsgaard. Indeed, the wine's animal side is lurking beneath its penetrating black raspberry fruit. Offers great potential but hard to taste today.

Tasted from bottle, released 2009

2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 94 points Good full yellow. Meursault-like aromas of lemon, nutmeg, minerals and butterscotch, along with a subtle leesy quality ("Frenchie" style, says Kongsgaard). Then seriously concentrated, minerally and deep, with powerful stone fruit flavors perfectly framed by ripe acidity. This boasts terrific sweetness of fruit. "A great year for us," says Kongsgaard about 2007

2007 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, 95+ points Bright, green-tinged yellow. Wonderfully complex but youthfully restrained nose hints at stone and citrus fruits, butterscotch, smoke and minerals. With its powerful stony minerality and tactile impression of extract this conveys a drier impression than the 2008 chardonnay that preceded it. Densely packed, energetic and tightly coiled chardonnay with a tannic element that reminded me of a red wine. Very closed wine, just short of bitter on the finish today and in need of at least a couple years of patience. But this should age for a long time. The crop level here was about 1.5 tons per acre following thinning, which is normal for this terraced vineyard in Napa.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 94 points Good deep red-ruby. Ripe, sweet aromas of currant, mocha, truffle, leather and chocolate, plus a whiff of blueberry from the petit verdot. Then broad and sweet but with a firm acid spine for the vintage. Distinctly dark flavors of blueberry, black raspberry and licorice. Finishes with densely packed tannins and excellent persistence. This should evolve very slowly.

2007 Syrah Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley, 94 points Full medium ruby. Smoked meat and gunflint on the nose; reminded me of a serious Hermitage. Then dense and brooding in the mouth, with a distinctly wild quality to its intense flavors of raspberry, smoked bacon and gravel. For all its size, this boasts terrific lift and grip, and an extravagant personality. Carrying 15% alcohol with a pH of 3.9. It's also the only wine in the cellar that isn't aged in essentially 100% new oak.

2008 VioRous White Wine Napa Valley, 94 points Nose dominated by peach nectar, flowers and spices from the viognier, with a complicating element of wild herbs. Dense and tactile yet with terrific bright fruit character and lovely brisk acidity to lift and frame the wine's intense peach and stone flavors. Finishes chewy and very long. The roussanne here is "as thick as potato soup," notes Kongsgaard, adding that its job is to "take the viognier down off its floral pedestal." Both of these are high-pH varieties, and yet the net impression is of an energetic wine.


MAY/JUNE 2009

I tasted with John Kongsgaard this year at his parents’ home in Napa, the site of the superb Judge vineyard (his father was a judge). Kongsgaard now lives and makes his wine on Atlas Peak, but the trek up and down the mountain would have cost me a winery visit. Kongsgaard describes 2007 as “a killer vintage, a perfect year. Every donkey walking backward made great wine in 2007.”

Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses

2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (92-94) points (Two-thirds from Hudson Vineyard, one-third from Hyde) Full green-gold. Aromas of pineapple and lemon curd. Juicy and penetrating, with considerable early charm but also noteworthy clarity to its fruit flavors. The zesty finish features mineral and minty nuances and terrific energy. This is about much more than merely fruit. “Great flesh without being bawdy,” offers Kongsgaard.

2007 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, (93-96) points Pale, bright yellow with a green tinge. Vibrant, aromatic nose combines lime, minerals and mint. Suave and seamless on entry, then dense and gripping in the middle, with superb intensity and lift to the flavors of lime zest and rocks. Much more backward than the basic chardonnay. Really electric chardonnay, with a building, palate-staining finish featuring late notes of marzipan and peach pit. “All minerals all the time” is how Kongsgaard describes this one. A great Napa Valley chardonnay in the making.

2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, (93-95) points (Three-quarters of this wine is from a vineyard owned by David Abreu and the rest from the Judge vineyard in Napa) Good deep ruby-red. Sappy aromas of maraschino cherry, cocoa, cedar and violet, with hints of leather and graphite emerging with aeration. Deep, sappy and intense, offering superb sweetness and clarity of flavor. Finishes with substantial sweet, fine tannins and lovely lift. This baby appears to be even denser than the St. Julien-like 2005 and should age very slowly.

2007 Syrah Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley, (93-96) points Saturated medium ruby. Knockout aromas and flavors of black raspberry, mocha, animal fur, licorice and pepper. Suave on entry, then almost shockingly energetic in the middle, combining superb density with an almost magically light touch. This very pure wine delivers outstanding syrah character, and may ultimately give the extraordinary 2005 a run for its money.

Tasted from bottle, released 2008

2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 91 points More exotic and more tropical on the nose than the 2007, hinting at butterscotch and honeyed high tones. Fat and sweet, but with a slightly bitter edge to its honeyed flavor. Less fleshy and fruity than the 2007, and currently conveying less minerality too. Not showing the fruit it displayed from barrel a year ago: is this in a dumb stage?

2006 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, 93 points Bright greenish-yellow. Reticent aromas of citrus peel and butterscotch, plus a whiff of exotic fruits. Dense, dry and light on its feet, with strong rocky and saline elements that give the wine more lift and aromatic persistence than the 2006 Napa bottling. Complex, classic and very long. Kongsgaard describes the Judge as a tannic vineyard. “The wine's Chablis-like acidity is really partly a function of the tannins,” he explained, adding that he uses most Damy barrels (100% new) for their subtlety.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 92 points Good medium ruby-red. Brooding aromas of black fruits, licorice, tar and fresh herbs; a bit less harmonious on the nose than the young 2006. Then dense and lush on the palate, with a nicely restrained sweetness to the flavors of black fruits, minerals and iodine. This is clearly less ripe than the 2007 but nonetheless boasts very good stuffing and length.

2006 Kongsgaard Wines Syrah Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley, 93 points Saturated medium ruby. Wild nose combines dark berries, roasted coffee and smoked meat. Dense and creamy-sweet in the mouth, with dark chocolate and cocoa powder notes adding interest to the roasted dark berry and game flavors. Doesn’t have quite the lift of the 2007 but this is a terrific drink. From a short crop for syrah, said Kongsgaard, who picked these vines on October 7 after throwing out 10% to 15% raisined grapes prior to the harvest and removing the “dry-as-dust” leaves on the west side of the vines “because it would have been hard to pick them out of the must.”

2007 VioRous White Wine Napa Valley, 93 points Bright color. Compelling aroma of lemon, white peach, minerals, crushed stone and licorice. Dense, spicy and aromatic, with a lovely edge of acidity framing and lifting the creamy flavors of peach nectar, spices, rock and minerals. (The wine goes through full malolactic fermentation, but then neither of these varieties begins with much malic acidity, notes Kongsgaard.) Incidentally, Kongsgaard recommends drinking this wine within two years for its aromatic qualities. This was bottled after ten months in barrel, along with the 2006 chardonnays. Kongsgaard ages it in his two-year-old chardonnay barrels.

MAY/JUNE 2008

This was my last tasting with John Kongsgaard at his home on Spring Mountain, as he and his wife will shortly relocate to their new property on Atlas Peak, where he began making his wines at a new facility in 2006. As usual, these were some of the top wines of my Napa Valley tour: the 2005 Judge Chardonnay promises to be one of the greatest California Chardonnays made to date (my high-water mark has long been the 1990 Marcassin Lorenzo Vineyard bottling), while the Syrah from the same vintage is also extraordinary. Kongsgaard's first varietally labeled Cabernet made from 12-year-old vines planted next to the Judge Vineyard in Napa and from several barrels from the Abreu Madrona Ranch vineyard in St. Helena, is also a knockout.

Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses

2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (92-95) points (from Kongsgaard's "home" vineyard just east of the town of Napa, plus Hyde and Hudson fruit) Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of lemon curd, minerals and crushed stone, lifted by citrus zest. Intensely flavored but youthfully austere, with brisk acid giving grip and shape to the complex notes of spices, flowers, herbs and minerals. This one has a lower pH than the '05, noted Kongsgaard, who told me that his 2006 Chardonnays took a good three to four months to ferment their sugars (his new cellar maintains a consistent temperature of 58 degrees).

2006 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, (93-96) points Bright pale yellow. Pungent, somewhat high-toned aromas of candied lemon peel and crushed rock. Dense, chewy and tactile, with outstanding energy and extract to its pure flavors of lemon, flint and crushed stone. Not as broad as the 2005 but perhaps even more sharply focused. This is evolving at a snail's pace and comes across as wound-up, uncompromisingly dry and extremely vibrant. Finishes firm, fine and impressively long. This Chardonnay is likely to need a good five years of bottle aging, which is rare for California.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, (91-94) points (includes 2% Petit Verdot) Full ruby-red color. Crushed black cherry, cassis, menthol and licorice on the slightly medicinal nose. Dense, juicy and sweet, with lovely concentration of redcurrant and raspberry flavor. Finishes very long, with serious, building tannins. I find this very reserved today, especially compared to the fleshier 2005.

2006 Syrah Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley, (92-95) points Saturated medium ruby. Reticent nose opens with aeration to show black raspberry, blackberry, licorice, brown sugar, black pepper and raw meat. Deep, sweet and superconcentrated; densely packed, primary and remarkably lively for a Syrah with a pH of 3.9. But then this is a very cool site with minerally soil, notes Kongsgaard. Finishes with terrific pepper-and-spice intensity. Kongsgaard destems but doesn't crush this fruit and fermented 80% of it in open-top puncheons, up from 50% in 2005.

Tasted from bottle, released 2007

2005 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 95 points ($75) Good bright, pale yellow. Lovely lift and complexity to the aromas of lemon, almond, marzipan, stone fruits and flowers, with intriguing crushed rock and fruit pit nuances. Densely packed and generous on the palate, showing much more flesh and generosity of texture today than the young 2006. But there's also superb grip to the flavors of lemon drop, crushed rock, minerals and spices. This has put on weight since I tasted it a year ago from barrel.

2005 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, 98 points ($175) Good bright yellow. Brooding, mineral-driven aromas of peach, pungent stone, smoke and nuts. Extraordinarily dense and tactile in the mouth, with a distinctly saline character to the superconcentrated flavors of peach, lemon and liquid stone. Conveys a much sweeter impression today than the 2006 Judge but without any loss of vibrancy. Perhaps most impressive of all on the whiplash of a finish, which features palate-saturating peach and apricot fruit flavors and great tannic support. It's tempting to say that this monumental Chardonnay is Burgundian, but it would be hard to find a Burgundy with the sheer size to stand up to this. Kongsgaard advises drinking it between 2010 and 2016.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, 94 points ($150) Good deep ruby-red. Blackberry, licorice, nutty oak and a whiff of baked bread on the sexy nose, lifted by ethereal dried rose and iris nuances. Then fat, large-scaled and generous on the palate, with concentrated black fruit and tar flavors lifted by flowers. Finishes with huge but sweet tannins, terrific backbone and outstanding persistence. Kongsgaard, who describes this wine as a "chocolate and cherry dessert," notes that he has vinified this fruit in the past but never bottled and sold it on its own until this vintage.

2005 Syrah Hudson Vineyards Napa Valley, 95 points ($150) Saturated dark ruby to the rim. Utterly compelling, ethereal nose combines black raspberry, white pepper, bacon fat, mocha and dark chocolate. Thick, dense and wonderfully sweet but with terrific acidity giving energy to this remarkably full wine. Finishes with unreal palate-saturating length and verve. Kongsgaard has hit the ball out of the park with his collection of 2005s.

2006 VioRous White Wine Napa Valley, 94 points ($75; a 60/40 blend of Roussanne and Viognier, co-fermented) Bright lemon-yellow color. Pungent aromas of peach, lemon and spice, with little obvious Viognier florality. Offers terrific energy in the mouth, with a dominant saline and mineral character conveying a strong impression of soil. The extremely long and vibrant finish shows a refreshingly bitter tannic edge. Kongsgaard say he's picking the Roussanne earlier to maintain energy and to keep the alcohol level moderate (this one weighs in at about 14%), but notes that it's hard to avoid getting a tannic quality in the wine.

MAY/JUNE 2007

Wine from barrel is scored in parentheses

2005 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, (95-98) points (from fruit harvested in passes from the family's rocky vineyard in southeastern Napa Valley) Pale, bright green-tinged yellow. Sappy lemon drop, crushed stone and smoky oak on the nose; distinctly rocky in character. Hugely rich but almost magically sappy and fresh, with a powerful minerality framing and intensifying the multidimensional flavors of crystallized pineapple, penetrating citrus zest and dried stone fruits. As rich and layered as this is, it's not at all over the top. Finishes with ripe citrus character and great minerally persistence. An incredible wine in the making; in this often copious vintage, the vines here yielded seven and a half tons of fruit from nine acres, according to Kongsgaard. As outstanding a barrel sample of California chardonnay as I can recall ever tasting.

2005 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (93-96) points (from the same Napa vineyard from which the Judge is made, plus Hyde and Hudson fruit) Pale yellow. Lemon drop, pineapple and crushed stone aromas lifted by herbal and floral highlights. Juicy, nervy and bright, with vibrant acids and firm minerality giving this unusual sappiness for Napa chardonnay. The lemon drop and pineapple fruit elements carry through in the mouth. The very long, vibrant finish comes across as cool and a bit minty, with some tannins contributing to an impression of grip.

2005 Syrah Napa Valley, (92-95) points Bright medium ruby. Extremely primary aromas of black raspberry, minerals, spices, chocolate, pepper, licorice, animal fur and menthol; almost grapey today but already hinting at the explosion of flavors to come. Wonderfully lush and sweet but with terrific sap and tannic spine serving to frame and intensify the dense flavors. Finishes sweet, bright and very long. The high quality of this wine is already plain to see, but it will clearly benefit from four or five years of bottle aging. (the Hudson Vineyards designation appears on the back label)

Tasted from bottle, released 2006

2004 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, 95 points Wilder, more reduced nose than the 2005, with notes of mocha, smoke and nutty oak. Then broad, dry and full: this is almost too big for the mouth. This glyceral-thick chardonnay boasts staggering volume, but in spite of its almost exotic thickness and tropical fruit notes, I'd still like to put this in a blind tasting of top grand cru Burgundies. The wine's solid mineral underpinning began to express itself with aeration.

2004 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 93 points Fairly pale color. Distinctly more exotic and gamey aromas than the very young 2005, offering butterscotch, truffle, earth, baking spices and smoky oak. Then suave, sweet and wonderfully full, with more obvious ripeness and thickness of texture than the '05. This is stuffed with material and finishes very long, broad and sweet. "The 2004 is to drink while the 2005 is to save," comments Kongsgaard.

2005 Roussanne/Viognier Napa Valley, 94 points (contains an unusually high 67% roussanne) Pale yellow. Knockout nose offers peach, complex soil tones and a saline sea shell note, with the more pungent floral/fruity side of the viognier currently in the deep background. Thick, dense and impressively broad, with captivating marmaladey high tones to the lemon drop, peach and earth flavors. This has a pH of at least 4.0 in bottle, but the tannins give the wine shape and nerve. Kongsgaard told me he actually "blends down the tannins of roussanne with the viognier, which also has tannins." Kongsgaard pairs this with pasta with scallops or raw mushrooms.

2004 Syrah Napa Valley, 93 points Saturated medium ruby. Full-blown, varietally expressive nose offers dark berries, smoked meat, soy sauce, game, truffle, gunflint and melted chocolate. Then huge and palate-saturating, with Rhone-like flavors more expressive of the volcanic soil in Hudson's Q block than simple sweet varietal fruits. This is more full-blown and lower in acidity than the young 2005 but the pH is in the 3.8 range, which is lower than most of the top syrahs made from Hudson fruit. Kongsgaard noted that he picks this parcel on the early side. Finishes with big but ripe tannins and superb persistence.

MAY/JUNE 2006

John Kongsgaard recently purchased a property on Atlas Peak, at an altitude of 2,500 feet and located due east of Dalla Valle (Oakville). He will have a new underground winery built in time to vinify the 2006 harvest. And Kongsgaard will devote himself entirely to his own label, as he sold his 50% share of Arietta to partner Fritz Hatton after vinifying the 2005s. On my most recent visit, I was especially knocked out by Kongsgaard's singular whites, which boast Old World richness of texture and kaleidoscopic complexity.

2004 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (93-95) points Full yellow. Crystallized lemon peel, smoke, truffle, fresh herbs and strong soil tones on the nose. Then superconcentrated and distinctly wild in the mouth, with flavors of roasted almond, bacon fat and caraway seed. "Not a pineapple to be found," says Kongsgaard, who has little interest in what he has called "fermentation fruits." Here the alcoholic fermentations linger for months, typically finishing well after the malos, and of course the wines remain on their lees in barrel for nearly 20 months. Finishes very dry and very long. Made from a blend of sites, including "mom's place in Napa" and the Hudson and Hyde vineyards.

2003 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 94 points Pretty yellow-green color. Aromas of crystallized fruits, sugar cookie, marzipan, nutmeg and sexy roasted oak. (Kongsgaard describes the 2004 chardonnay as "cookie dough" while this is the "baked cookie." Quite open and wonderfully sweet on the palate, with smoked meat and spice flavors dominating. This is relaxed whereas the 2004 is racy. The 2004 seems more acidic, Kongsgaard agrees, because it has more tannins.

2004 Chardonnay The Judge Napa Valley, (94-96) points Good pale yellow. Crystallized yellow fruits and their skin on the nose. Then superconcentrated, ripe and uncompromisingly dry, with dense, layered, uncommonly deep flavors of apricot, lemon custard, burnt sugar and crushed rocks. Wonderfully brisk and gripping chardonnay, finishing with terrific cut and an impression of tannins.

2003 Chardonnay The Judge Napa Valley, 93 points Slightly deeper yellow than the 2004. Wild aromas of bacon fat and game. Superconcentrated but quite dry, with flavors of apple pie dough, cinnamon butter and smoked meat. Very little primary fruit to be found. This is hugely rich but today I find it almost too dry, with the minerality it displayed in barrel a year ago decidedly in the deep background.

2004 Viognier/Roussanne Napa Valley, 94 points (A 55/45 blend; bottled after ten months in barrel, at the same time as the 2003 chardonnay) Bright, pale yellow. Pungent aromas of citrus zest, minerals and flowers. Penetrating and firm-edged in the mouth, with highly perfumed flavors of crystallized lemon peel, minerals, smoke and candle wax. This has an exhilarating sugar/acid snap, with a sweet/tart quality that continued to bring this taster back for another sip. (In fact, I polished off this bottle a few hours later over dinner.)

2004 Syrah Napa Valley, (91-93) points Good full ruby-red. Slightly reduced aromas of raspberry, smoked meat and gunflint; distinctly Northern Rhone in character. Fat, dense and sweet, with a dominant dark raspberry flavor and a wonderfully layered texture. Then surprisingly tannic, even a bit tough, on the back and currently lacking charm. This brawny syrah will need at least a few years of bottle aging.

2003 Syrah Napa Valley, 94 points Saturated ruby, darker than the 2004. Full-blown aromas of black raspberry, smoked duck and black pepper. Then superrich, huge and chocolatey, with highly concentrated flavors of cherry, raspberry, violet, creosote and white pepper. Wonderfully deep and explosive wine. Kongsgaard noted that this sample had been poured into a decanter six hours before my visit. This perfectly tracks the sample I tried from barrel a year ago, but seems even richer today. An extraordinary California syrah.

MAY/JUNE 2005

These extraordinarily rich wines, typically bottled later than most, have proven to have at least mid-term aging potential by California standards. Kongsgaard finds the 2003s to have a bit more nerve than the 2002s. I find all these wines to be quite outrageous.

2003 The Judge Chardonnay Napa Valley, (94-97) points Kongsgaard makes this wine from what he describes as "visually perfect fruit" from the family's vineyard in southeastern Napa Valley Extravagant aromas of orange blossom, apricot, nuts, butterscotch and light sulfides. Dense but urgent in the mouth; at least as lush and concentrated as the "regular" chardonnay but with extraordinary vibrancy and great acid spine. Captivating, downright Burgundian notes of roasted almond and minerals.

2003 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (92-95) points This finished its sugar fermentation in late 2004 and had not yet been racked or sulfured as of the first week of March. Good clear, full yellow. Superripe aromas of peach, apricot, honey and lees. Lush, thick and full, but kept firm by an edge of acidity. Wonderfully sweet pit fruit flavors complicated by smoky and gamey nuances. Wild but not out of control. The yield in this vineyard was about 1-1/4 tons of fruit per acre in '03, according to Kongsgaard.

2003 Syrah Napa Valley, (91-93) points From the Q block of Hudson Vineyard, featuring lighter, volcanic soil. Good medium ruby. Complex, Hermitage-like aromas of black fruits, smoked meat and black pepper, with a hint of reduction. Sweet and dense but juicy and penetrating, with the balance and tannic structure to develop in bottle for a decade of more. Very well balanced but youthfully tight syrah, finishing with building tannins.

MAY/JUNE 2004

2002 Chardonnay Napa Valley, (93-95) points Aromas of lime, lemon, papaya, nutmeg, clove and dusty stone, all lifted by a note of marmalade. Sweet, rich and exotic, with a compellingly creamy texture and a snappy sugar/acid balance that reminded me of a great Alsace wine. A real fruit bomb in comparison with the more minerally, laid back 2001, and perhaps for drinking sooner (but then this won't be bottled until August). As exotic as the fruit is, this is also bright, firm and fresh on the back end. Kongsgaard noted that this wine took more than a year to ferment its sugars and also finished its malolactic fermentation much later than usual. The result was an unusually glycerol texture.

2001 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 94 (+?) points Pale medium yellow. Slightly high-toned aromas of candied orange peel, mirabelle, smoke and exotic herbs, as in Chartreuse or Benedictine. Wonderfully restrained and precise in the mouth, with the nervosité of great Burgundy. Bright, minerally and gripping, with hints of citrus peel and exotic herbs lifted by brisk acidity. Not at all an in-your-face style of California Chardonnay despite its obvious density and strong extract. This will make a killer ringer in a white Burgundy tasting six or eight years from now.

2002 Syrah Napa Valley, (92-95) points Saturated ruby to the rim. Superripe, slightly hi-tones aromas of roasted berries, spice cake and smoked meat. Hugely rich, chocolately flavors of dark berries, anise and roasted herbs. Compellingly sweet, mouthfilling syrah that has not begun to assume its adult shape. The tannins are broad but not yet as fine as those of the 2001, very much in the 2002 style. The vines here are pruned to one cluster per shoot, yielding less than two tons per acre of fruit. Both the clusters and the individual berries were smaller in 2002 than in 2001, noted Kongsgaard.

2001 Syrah Napa Valley, 94 (+?) points Saturated ruby. Knockout Northern Rhône-like aromas of raspberry, bacon fat, minerals, cocoa powder, pepper and licorice. Superconcentrated, saline and distinctly dry, with flavors of berry liqueur, dark chocolate and licorice. Almost painfully intense and a bit clenched today. But this expanded impressively with extended time in the open bottle. In its flavors, texture and structure, this is midway between Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage.

2002 Viognier/Roussanne Napa Valley, 94 points Bright aromas of citrus and peach, with a piquant cyanic bitterness. Very dry and fresh, with a tactile, phenolic quality that is supported by - or perhaps the result of - the wine's intense peach, apricot and mineral flavors. The structure here comes from rocks and tannins, notes Kongsgaard, not acidity. Finishes firm and very long. Serve this with scallops, lobster bisque or fish soup in general he suggests. Kongsgaard originally found that the viognier from this hilltop was too floral and the roussanne too minerally, earthy and gnarly, so he began by blending the two varieties. Pretty soon he was co-fermanting them, and now he actually picks the two varieties together.

MAY/JUNE 2003

2000 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 93(+?) points Attractive pale yellow color. Sappy, pure, highly aromatic fruit aromas of orange peel, peach and lemon cream, complicated by notes of mirabelle and minerals; not particularly oaky despite the fact that it was aged in all new barrels. Very ripe and rich but juicy, with sharply delineated flavors of citrus fruits, orange peel, honey, spices and flowers. Showing wonderfully primary flavors and great spicy persistence. While numerous 2000 chardonnays will never be better than they are today, this wine is still youthfully undeveloped and should go through a graceful evolution in bottle over the next four to six years. Finishes with excellent grip.

2000 Syrah Napa Valley, 93(+?) points Full medium ruby. Knockout nose of black raspberry, minerals, violet, gunflint, white pepper and smoky bacon fat. Dense, sweet and silky in the mouth, with sharply delineated fruit, pepper, spice and meat flavors. Wonderfully layered, gripping syrah, with superb juicy persistence and big but suave tannins. The finish throws off notes of graphite, woodsmoke, pepper and charred meat. After I tasted this compelling syrah, Kongsgaard told me he had poured the wine into a decanter seven hours before our tasting.

2001 Roussanne/ Viognier Napa Valley, 93 points Pale, green-tinged color. Perfumed, pure, stony aromas of pineapple, pear, lime, mint and white flowers. Juicy, lively and bright but dense, with dry-but-rich flavors of orchard fruits and flower blossom. A vibrant, structured white wine with terrific fruit and a firm-edged finish. The tannins come from the roussanne, while the viognier brings lift to the wine, notes Kongsgaard. Very impressive.